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Collector preserves Lao weaving heritage (from the Vientiane Times, 30 January 2008)
Gentle sunlight filters through a window into the Taykeo Textile Gallery, striking the bright hues of textiles and clothing made by seven ethnic groups, dating back a hundred years and now serving to keep alive old silk weaving traditions.
The weavings feature the symbolic designs of ethnic groups, reflecting their beliefs and lifestyle.
The woven masterpieces in Ms Taykeo Sayavongkamdy's collection number at least 400 , gathered from 18 different ethnic groups. She has selected the work of seven groups for display during a four month public exhibition, showcasing the symbolic designs that reflect the way of life of the women who made them.
Ms Taykeo, the owner of the gallery, fell in love with these intricate silk weavings in her childhood. She now exhibits the best of them, along with the weaving implements used to make them, to give a sense of national identity to modern day weavers, helping them to appreciate the value of the skills passed on to successive generations of women.
"I want to provide some sense of the importance of preserving and taking care of these textiles. Even if they are old and fraying, we can still learn from them by using the patterns to create new designs," Ms Taykeo explains, sitting in the workshop where her weavers turn out items of clothing for the discerning modern woman.
The inspiration for this collection took root when she was in France , where she noticed how people stared at the clothes she wore in fascination. This made her realise just how much her clothing spoke for her national identity.
"Most Lao women tend to overlook the beauty inherent in our everyday dress. We take our sinh for granted, as we see our aunts, mothers and sisters wearing them all the time, but when you travel overseas you come to understand you're wearing something really special. Our clothing is nothing like that worn in most countries and, most of all, it lets people know we're from Laos ," she says.
Returning from France in 1977, her interest was further stimulated by the number of visitors from neighbouring countries she saw buying up old textiles made in the north of Laos . She observed that they bought these pieces from women who brought them to Vientiane when they came to visit their children, even purchasing damaged pieces.
"I discovered that they were buying them for exhibitions in their home countries. I talked to some of the sellers I met, trying to persuade them not to part with their old finery so that we would not lose our heritage and our children would have the chance to see these wonderful designs. Since then, I have pioneered the collection of these textiles so that we can preserve and show them to others, in the hope that it will open their eyes to their significance in our culture," she says.
Today Ms Taykeo is dressed in a blouse with long sleeves of purple silk and a mud mee tie-dyed sinh as she explains to visitors how she came by the pieces in her collection and their history. Her gallery is in Saphanthongkang village in Vientiane , where she features the work of the Tai Daeng, Tai Lue, Phu Tai, Kataang, In, Hmong and Lao Lum groups from Luang Prabang and Champassak provinces.
Visitors can admire and touch the elaborately woven textiles in the form of rugs, sinh and blouses and inspect the weaving implements that hang on the walls. Each tribe has its own symbols, such as the legendary naga revered by the Tai Daeng that is Ms Taykeo's favourite.
"The Tai Daeng have not only developed outstanding designs but they are industrious weavers and keep their traditional skills alive," she says.
She realised this very early one morning as she was on her way to Xamneua district, Huaphan province, to select more pieces for her collection. At 3am the car she was travelling in broke down and looking around, she saw the village women had already begun their day's work.
The people of this ethnic group live mainly in Huaphan province, close to the Vietnamese border.
"The fine quality of workmanship and the particular designs of these weavers are recognised not only in Laos but around the world. Their weaving skills are still growing because most women here continue to wear their traditional costumes and use textiles in almost every aspect of their daily lives," she says.
For this reason, she attributes great value to their textiles and does her best to preserve as many as she can. Despite her best efforts, many have been sold out of the country and a lot of others have been burned.
It is a Lao custom that, when a person dies, the family burns their clothes in the hope that they will be passed on to them for use in their next life.
"This kind of practice is damaging. I understand that this is a long-standing custom, but we need to realise that if the best pieces are burnt, it's almost impossible for anyone to replicate them afterwards," she says, expressing the hope that people will come to appreciate their value and keep the finest garments.
"I remember when my sister died that all of her best clothes were burned, and I was sorry to see them go. Now I've learned to ask for clothes from my relatives in advance," she says with a laugh.
Authoritative experts on Asian textiles have said that Ms Taykeo has one of the most valuable collections of Lao textiles, as it incorporates the finest and oldest pieces ever made.
At least 40 of the items are considered masterpieces based upon their particular design and their perfect workmanship. Some of them are more than 200 years old but their vivid colours still shine through, as they have been preserved with special care.
Those who want to see this stunning exhibition for themselves can view the collection at the gallery until April.
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© 2008 Original Women |
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